How a Pro Chef Makes NYC Deli-Inspired Egg Rolls | The Special | Bon Appétit

Quick Overview

Chef Jackie Carnesi from Kellogg's Diner successfully creates a Reuben-inspired egg roll using a rye flour wrapper, which results in a crispy exterior and a flavorful, balanced filling that mimics the classic deli sandwich.

Key Points: Jackie Carnesi, Chef at Kellogg's Diner in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, recreates the Reuben sandwich as an egg roll using a rye flour wrapper. The rye flour wrapper, selected for its distinct woody, nutty flavor, is rolled thin (1/8th of an inch) and fried at 3750F for 3-4 minutes to achieve a crispy, bubbly exterior. The filling combines brisket (cured for 5-7 days with salt, sugar, pepper corns, bay leaf, and mustard seed), Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing. Key elements for success include keeping the filling mixture homogeneous and ensuring the filling is not too wet to maintain structural integrity during frying. The accompanying dipping sauce is an Avocado Ranch made with mayonnaise, lemon juice, Maggi seasoning (as an umami enhancer instead of traditional Worcestershire sauce), and horseradish for brightness. Carnesi emphasizes the importance of balancing the richness of the brisket and cheese with the acidity of the sauerkraut and the brightness of the sauce for a perfect bite.

Context: The video features Chef Jackie Carnesi of Kellogg's Diner, a 97-year-old diner in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, as she demonstrates how to transform the flavors of a classic Reuben sandwich into an appetizer format: an egg roll. She contrasts her version with the original Chili's Southwestern Egg Rolls, focusing on achieving the right texture and flavor balance for her unique creation, which utilizes a homemade rye flour wrapper.

Detailed Analysis

Chef Jackie Carnesi from Kellogg's Diner details her process for creating a Reuben-inspired egg roll, contrasting it with the flavor profile of the original Chili's Southwestern Egg Roll. The recipe begins with curing brisket for 5-7 days in a brine containing water, salt, sugar, pepper corns, bay leaf, and mustard seed to achieve the signature pink color and tender texture. After cooking the brisket low and slow, the meat is chopped and mixed with diced Swiss cheese, sauerkraut (which is squeezed dry to prevent sogginess), and Russian dressing to create the filling. For the wrapper, Carnesi uses a rye flour dough, intentionally skipping the sifting process to retain texture and flavor. She rolls the dough thin (1/8th inch) and rolls the filling tightly, sealing the edges with water to ensure structural integrity during frying. The final product is deep-fried at 3750F for 3-4 minutes until golden brown and bubbly. The accompanying dipping sauce is a modified Avocado Ranch, featuring mayonnaise, lemon juice, Maggi seasoning for umami depth, and horseradish for brightness, replacing the traditional Worcestershire sauce found in standard Russian dressing. Carnesi concludes that the final product successfully balances the richness of the meat and cheese with the acidity of the kraut and the crispiness of the rye wrapper.